My
1987 Porsche 928 S4, 5 speed
Intake
Manifold & Valve Covers Refinishing
Removal
Both Tony (Manifold
and Valve Covers)
and John
have great write-ups on removal and refinishing of these parts. I
have chosen easier path - I have had them removed (not cheap!).
What Else To Do
At This Time
Bernie site (I do not have current link)
has great write up on what else to do one you are there. I have
included it here
as well.
With Intake Manifold
removed, the following is what I had done at the
same time:
- Idle Stabilizer Valve
- Idle "flappy valve" (intake air tuner flap),
- "flappy" valve bearing,
- Knock sensors,
- Fuel
rails insulation,
- Fuel Injectors cleaning (was not sure about replacement due to
differences between reasonably priced Ford injectors vs. unaffordable
982 injectors),
- Re-finishing other parts:
- Control cables bracket,
- Thermostat housing,
- Cooling water outlet elbow, and
- Valve covers.
To Paint Or To
Powder Coat
I have herd owners defending paint over coat and vice versa. I
believe there are few general pros and cons I have identified and
learned from:
- Powder Coating
- Cons -
- It is referred to as "crap shoot" - whatever come
out is what one gets. Apparently there no control of the shooting
process. To change the results old surface needs to be
stripped before new coat may be re-sprayed. Results may still be
not to one's liking;
- Color selection is limited to pre made available
choices (no mixing and
matching).
- Pros -
- HIGH DURABILITY!!!
This is very important
advantage. I got my manifold side covers damaged during simple
bolting. Mechanic has used metal washers directly over the newly
painted
surface and paint flaked on all bolt holes! It took them 3 holes
to realize that they were destroying my parts!
- Paint
- Cons -
- very fragile finish (learned form my own
experience).
- Pros -
- complete control of the process to assure high quality
finish,
- unlimited colors mixing and matching.
Pricing will very depending where one wants to have the job
done. Often, with shipping costs included, one can find reputable
shop that is much less expensive that the local one (specially in
California coats are much higher than in other states).
I have selected paint based on promised by the shop quality of the
results.
Magnesium
Anti-corrosion Protection
Being very active, Porsche coated inside of the Intake
Manifold. This coating, and any material fill used to eliminate
or minimize
casting imperfections, will be removed. Question is how to
address the issue of future corrosion. It appears that it
depend on the finish type:
- Powder Coating - there is a concern that hard powder coating
chips may enter engine (in some cases, such chips were found in the
engine oil) and it is often not recommended to powder coat inside.
- Paint - this concern seems to apply to a paint, maybe due to
differences in chip hardness between coatings and paint.
- TAG Company has one of
the best corrosion protection processes for magnesium and it's alloys
(check
Boeing Technical Paper link on this
process on their site - it finds it to be superior. TAG
advised that manifold and covers could be tagnited for $150 but they
must be shipped to North Dakota! Parts may be baked after
tagniting to out gas them. Tagnited surface has superior paint
adhesion capability as well. Here
is my
correspondence with TAG on this.
Since I did not have time to ship parts to North Dakota, I have
selected the paint option that was done by
Exotic Motorworks
for $300 (intake manifold, valve covers, and "flappy" valve bearing
replacement. They did paint manifold inside to reduce
exposure to magnesium corrosion.
Finished Parts
- Fuel rail covers painted black
with VHT High Temp engine enamel (after
2000 miles
paint holds up very well);
- Control cable bracket and
levers painted with VHT Hit Temp Engine Enamel - Gray (easy to
disassemble, cover shaft sides of each lever before spraying);
- Main parts painted in Black
Chrome.

Manifold Close-ups




In the car




Air ducts are sprayed with thin layer of VHT SP-124 GLOSS BLACK high temp
engine enamel.
HOODLINER UPGRADE
Hoodliner replaced with
Dynamat
Hoodliner (best source
here),
applied
over the Dynamat Extreme (best source e-Bay by far: 36 SQ Ft under $100)
I have used
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner 08984 to remove old glue. I had to cut
Dynamat Extreme into smaller piece since attaching one large piece is almost
impossible. Required corrections require undoing attached piece.
Dynamat Extreme adhesive force
to the clean hood surface is so high that the hood sheet metal significantly
deforms when pulling incorrectly placed Dynamat back. Damage to the hood
is possible. Smaller pieces can be placed with ease to cover entire area.

Dynamat Extreme

Daynamat Hoodliner over Dynamat Extreme
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